Gems from Killarney

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When people speak of the beauty of places across the globe and the wonderful awe inspiring sights to behold. Feeding our natural human bias upon hearing, seeing or reading of such nature scapes tend to allow us to dream and add a artificial yet human vibrancy to the destination before we even get there. And so many times – as a result of the aforementioned bias, we are left a little underwhelmed once we finally make it to our destination.

Yet, there are few places on our green earth that do truly live up to the story telling or musing of others or the dreams of so many that travel. I am lucky to live in a country that hosts more than one of these epic locales. One such place that has stolen my heart is the Killarney National Park and surrounding area in County Kerry, Ireland.

I have only been there for a short period and yet it captured my heart and mind with its beauty. So much so, that I walked just over 40 kilometres in the first two days, going in below order (a portion on the Kerry Way Trail) and then back to Killarney, doing my best with a phone camera to capture limited shots that I could:

  • Killarney
  • Ross Island
  • Muckross
  • Lough Leane
  • Ladies View
  • The Black Valley

The Wandering Path

Leaving Killarney, walking along the paths towards Ross Island & Muckross, I was treated to an amazing view of Lough Leane:

I ventured along the shore and cut back in onto soft dirt paths through varied forested areas, thinking all the while not only of the beauty of the region that I am in but also the history that it stores. And as if the universe was to make the point for me, I had by chance made my way to Ross Island on Lough Leane:

Ross Island is home to Ross Castle which was founded in 1500. The castle has a varied history passing from the O’Donoghue family, loyal to the Earl of Desmond to an english land surveyor Sir Valentine Browne towards the end of the 17th century post failed rebellion.

Eventually by the mid 18th century, the castle took on a formal posting by hosting a english garrison in preparation for the potential french invasion just after the 1798 rebellion.

Heading southeast towards the path leading back into the Muckross House grounds on my way to Muckross Friary, I came across a perfect tranquil place to rest. Then the sun as if knowing I was there, peaked out to add greater majesty to the already vibrant scene before me. I was very lucky to capture this moment:

With the clouds again stepping in and the sun shirking away on me. I stepped away from my rest and though the grounds and into the park again, I made my way to Muckross Friary:

Muckross Friary was founded in 1488 by the Observantine Franciscans. The order would today be considered rather strict in the manner of their expression of faith in day to day life.

Being of catholic faith however and with Ireland under english rule at the time, the friary and its respective order faced repressive actions under the reign of Henry VIII but would eventually re-store itself to Muckross Friary in 1612 post his reign. Alas, however, as is common place in the history of this fair isle, yet more upheaval in the middle of the 17th century lead to Cromwellians of that time driving out the order in 1652.

My path now leads away from the memory of the past, the road before me leads towards the valley. To reach there however, I headed up and out to what is considered one of the most spectacular spots in Ireland – Ladies View:

As you may begin to sense: with a lot of spots in Ireland – there are some unusual names or nick names which you are probably asking – how in god’s name did it get such a name? Is it due to romance or love or a story of deep sorrow – no, not this time. It is a little interesting titbit of a story that highlights the beauty of the spot and the history of it and/or those who have thread on the same soil as myself.

Ladies View was named in reference to the story that in 1861, Queen Victoria was returning to Muckross House Estate by carriage with a standard escort of the time. Upon first seeing the view – it is said that she stopped there and took the view in with her ladies-in-waiting.

Dipping down from Ladies View, I went forward on the final photographed leg of the journey into the Black Valley (Cummeenduff):

The Black Valley is our final little gem. It is nick named as such due to it being one of the last spots in Ireland to be connected to the power grid in 1976. Nick names aside, it is stunningly beautiful with panoramic views all the way from Ladies View up to the southern entrance into the Gap of Dunloe. It is a spot of such tranquillity and beauty, untouched save a single road and a few homesteads since the glaciers melted and formed this valley at the ending of the Midlandian period 13,000 years ago. With mountain views and small water falls, the air is fresh and the scenery crystalline in the clarity that it brings to the mind and soul.


Reflection

Ireland is not consistent in many ways, especially in its weather and mix of localism with the modern world that she has embraced. However, as an Irish man, one of the strongest themes of the country that anyone would note as they travel here is that its rugged beauty is deeply tinged with a long bloodied history of religious suppression intertwined with colonial rule by division.

This mix of history and beauty does greatly to enhance the culture of this nations people though their kind heartedness and in the conservation of these idyllic and tranquil locales. It is a reminder of what we have to share with each other and also what we may or may yet find within ourselves.

In essence, where we live does well to reflect the nature of our people. Beautifully so.


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